But no trip to Denmark is really complete without visiting the surrounding countryside. Shopping and dining in the bustling capital is certainly an authentic Danish experience, but try not to leave the country without sampling the pastoral pleasures of Funen.

Funen--written "Fyn," in Danish--is the second largest of the many islands making up the country of Denmark. Though fairly close to the capital--you're never too far from Copenhagen in this diminutive country--it's worlds away in atmosphere. Here the cobblestone streets of the city give way to rolling hills dotted with fields of brilliant yellow hops, church spires turn to windmills, and the pace of life slows to something out of the last century.

Odense, the Fairy-Tale Capital of the World

Funen is best known for two things: castles and fairy tales. The best place in Funen to start exploring both is Odense. This town of 185,000 is the third largest in Denmark, but is most notable for being the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Though not acclaimed during his lifetime, today Andersen's legacy is everywhere. If you arrive during the summer, you may get to view a theatrical version of one of his tales--the city traditionally stages a month-long Andersen festival in July and August.

Andersen fans should also be sure to visit two shrines devoted to the author. First visit the H.C. Andersens Barndomshjem, the preserved cottage where the future writer spent his ugly-duckling childhood. Then visit the even more impressive H.C. Andersen Hus, where the author lived as an adult. Here you can see memorabilia including his trademark top hat and walking stick, as well as letters and original manuscripts.

Castles

It's probably no coincidence that Denmark's most famous spinner of magical tales came from a land dotted with castles and manor houses. You won't find Hamlet's castle here (called Helsingør, it's located about 25 miles north of Copenhagen). Funen's castles (or "slots," as they are called in Danish) are a generally cheerier lot. A list of highlights is below--keep in mind that it's just a sample. Over 100 castles and manor houses dot the countryside of Funen, and about 30 have their doors open at least partially to the public.

Nyborg Slot
Nyborg Slot, built around 1200, is the oldest secular building in Funen. It provides a fascinating glimpse into Denmark's medieval past. During the 1300s, Danish kings held court here. Although the red brick building was heavily damaged during wars with Sweden in the 1650s, it was thoroughly renovated after World War I. Today the castle and grounds are open to the public every day in the summer. Concerts of medieval and renaissance music are held during the warm months as well. The castle is completely closed, however, from November through February. The rest of the year it's closed Monday. You'll find the castle in the center of the town of Nyborg. (Admission: 10 kroner--for a currency converter, click here.)

Egeskov Slot
The years 1533-1536 saw Denmark embroiled in a civil war. Castles built during and immediately after this time tended to be heavily fortified and moated, and are constructed with imposing walls. Egeskov Slot, built in 1554, is perhaps the finest and best-preserved example of this style. Made of light-colored stone, with turrets, chimneys, and spires, the castle will inspire a feeling of déjà vu in fairy tale fans. The castle is surrounded by 30 acres of gardens, also open to the public. The grounds also curiously house museums devoted to automobiles and aircraft. There is a summer music series. The castle and park are open daily (110 kroner buys admission to both) from June through September. The castle is closed completely the rest of the year. Egeskov Castle is in the town of Kværndrup, accessible by train from Odense and Svendborg, and by bus 920 from Nyborg.

Holckenhavn Slot
Another excellent example of renaissance architecture is Holckenhavn Castle, only recently opened to the public. Construction on this enormous castle began in 1579. Tours of the castle include many of the interior rooms with their original furniture, as well as the grounds. A highlight is the Ellen Marsvins chapel, with some of the best friezes in northern Europe. The castle is located at Torvet 9, 5800 in Nyborg. Admission is 40 kroner per person. The castle is well worth the trip and the admission price, but don't count on being able to simply show up and get a tour--the castle is only open a few days a month, even during the busy summer season. Your best bet is Sundays in June, Tuesdays in July, and Sundays in August. Tours almost always start at 2pm. You should probably call ahead when you get to Denmark to see if the castle will be open during your stay: (+45) 65 31 02 80. (Don't worry; everyone in Denmark speaks excellent English.)

Valdemars Slot
By the seventeenth century, although the country was involved in an ongoing war with Sweden, castles were being built with an emphasis on stately grace rather than impenetrable walls. A good example of this baroque style is the Valdemars Slot, built starting in 1639. This castle--really more of a mansion than a fortress--was built for the son of King Christian IV, although the prince rarely visited his home with the distinctive gabled roof. Today it's superbly preserved, having been owned by the same family since 1678. Getting there is half the fun with this castle. It can be reached by car by following Slosalléen from the town of Troense. However, it's much more enjoyable to take the steamer HS Helge from the town of Svendborg. The short journey is often enlivened by the captain's accordion playing--and the imbibing of Gl. Dansk, a popular local liquor (it's an acquired taste). Castle admission is 35 kroner, and it's open daily from May through September. It's closed from October 19 through the end of March every year, and open weekends all other times.